The Hedgehog Emporium

Hedgehogs as a species are shown by fossil records to have been around since the time of the dinosaurs, which is longer than most other captive animals today.  However, they have not been in captivity very long.  There are several varieties of Hedgehog including the popular European Hedgehogs seen in gardens across England and Eastern Europe as well as several African species including the African Whitebellied and the Pruners Hedgehogs. The latter two were crossed to develop the African Pigmy Hedgehog like the one you are looking to purchase.  While European Hedgehogs do quite well outside in mild climates, they are currently listed as a threatened species and are not available as pets.  The African Pigmy Hedgehogs make excellent pets when kept indoors but cannot survive outside, even in a mild climate, as they are unable to hibernate or enter torpor (more on this later).  The colour of a Hedgehog’s quills determine which “breed” of Hedgehog it is, meaning how it is classified under the The International Hedgehog Association’s (or IHA) colour designations.  Colour is genetically controlled by a suite of genes which determine the colour intensity, shade and distribution as well as nose, eye, mask and skin colours.  Photos of colour standards have been generously provided by Hedgehog Central and detailed descriptions of each colour can be found on their website.  We at The Hedgehog Emporium are interested in understanding these genes more closely and how they are inherited through generations.  We are interested in developing the more hard-to-find colours of Hedgehogs to be loved as truely unique pets and for future Breeders.

Hedgehogs are born weighing approximately 1 gram and grow quickly over the following weeks, gaining quills within an hour of birth and opening their eyes about 2 weeks later.  Adult Hedgehogs can range from 200 to 1,200 grams (7 to 42 Oz).  A healthy weight to expect from your new addition will range from 300 to 450 grams (10 to 15 Oz), depending mainly on his/her body structure and activity level.  The easiest way to trim down an overweight Hedgehog (>450 grams or 15 Oz) is by giving him/her a wheel on which to run (buy the largest one you can).  This wheel should have a solid or small mesh floor, not bars, to avoid foot injuries and broken legs.  Some Hedgehog enthusiasts have attached odometers to their wheels and report Hedgehogs commonly running 8 to 11 Kilometres (5 to 7 miles) and some reaching 16 Kilometers (10 miles) each night!!  Generally speaking, Hedgehogs maintain a healthy body weight and even when food is left out at all times will not eat more than they require.  Commonly it is the treats that cause weight gain, so be careful about what you are giving.  An underweight Hedgehog is just as dangerous and provided they have access to food at all times means they likely need immediate medical attention.  If your Hedgehog looks emaciated or starts losing weight quickly (or stops eating) get him/her to a vet specializing in exotic small animals as soon as possible.  If you need help locating a Hedgehog Vet near you feel free to contact us and we will direct you to the nearest one.

            Unlike many domesticated animals, Hedgehogs have not been in captivity very long.  Therefore, it is important to consider what they would do in the wild when attempting to setup the habitat in which they will live.  Naturally being foragers and hunters they tend to explore and move around extensively yet most activity is nocturnal when the threat of predators, such as large birds, is minimized.  Consequently, it is important for a Hedgehog to be able to run around either on a wheel or in the cage or they will become bored, lethargic and generally badly tempered.  That being said, a lot of room is not necessary.  A general rule of thumb requires a minimum of 60 cm by 60 cm (2' by 2') floor space per Hedgehog.  This will provide room for food, water, a wheel, toys and a nest to keep them happy.  Unhappy Hedgehogs are shy, huff at you and refuse to uncurl.

Everyone needs something to do; for example, I work all day and my husband goes to school.  In the wild most of a Hedgehog’s time is taken up with basic survival concerns, such as finding shelter, food, and water.  Once we take an animal into our home and put it in some form of cage where we provide food and water at all times, it no longer has to spend it's time finding these things.  Unfortunately, there is no University for your Hedgehog to attend and an animal left to sit with no affection and nothing to play with quickly becomes miserable.  A variety of food is important, as are places to explore (various tubes and boxes), toys to play with (cat balls, toilet paper tubes, ferret toys), and opportunities to exercise (time to run out of their cage or a solid surface wheel in the cage).  The most important kind of stimulus for a good pet is play, handling and affection from their owner.  Time spent handling your Hedgehog will make all the difference between an animal that is nothing more than something to feed and clean up after and one who will be your friend for the rest of its life.

A shelter is also very important since Hedgehogs instinctively hide during the day, I use blankets but am careful to avoid loose threads that could be swallowed or entangle a foot.  Other shelter options range from shoe boxes with a door cut into it to elaborate homes with ramps and windows.  It is also important to consider the ambient temperature of the room, anything below 21 C (70 F) will prompt your Hedgehog to quickly try and hibernate (they are desert creatures after all and require warmth).  It is very important as a new Hedgehog owner to understand that the African Pigmy Hedgehogs, as a species, CANNOT hibernate and your new pet will soon die.  The minimum temperature should be 23 C (73 F) and may be acceptable for short periods of time but most hedgehogs are not comfortable at temperatures below 24 C (75 F).  Under tank heating pads are NOT recommended as they will burn tender feet.  The best option is ceramic heaters that won’t upset the natural day/night schedule of your new Hedgehog on very cold days, available at any pet store selling reptiles.  Another very important point is to NEVER place the heating element inside the cage as your baby will cuddle with it and receive severe and life threatening burns!!!  At the other extreme is overheating.  Like any mammal too much heat is a bad thing and can cause dehydration and heat shock.  Avoid setting cages near windows, heat vents or direct sunlight on hot days, good air circulation and free access to water will help avoid dehydration related issues.

A substrate is important to provide warmth, avoid hurting delicate feet and nest construction.  Corn cob and clay kitty litter should be strongly avoided as they can be ingested and cause intestinal blockages which could kill a Hedgehog.  Additionally, cedar dust has been attributed to allergic airway diseases in rodents and humans and hay will bring in mites and cause eye pokes.  Recycled paper is a favourite among many Hedgehog owners, but I personally prefer pine shavings for my little guys and girls.  An inexpensive solution to overpriced pet store shavings is to buy a bale of “horse bedding” from a farm supply store, I generally pay $5 for the bale and it will almost fill 2 garbage cans once decompressed.  If you are looking for something to put in a litter tray, try aquarium sand or shredded paper, these are cheap to replace regularly and will not hurt your Hedgehog.

Many books on Hedgehogs state that they are solitary animals and should not ever be housed together.  This is not entirely true.  Some Hedgehogs do quite well with a friend of the same sex. However, you should NEVER buy a Hedgehog assuming it will be ok to live with your current pet!!!! Hedgehogs that do not do well with a cage mates have done serious injury and even killed one put in with them!!!!  Only after numerous supervised play sessions where the two Hedgehogs have explored and played amicably should you try putting them in a cage together.  Even after that you MUST  supervise them closely for several days and remove the intruder promptly at the first signs of aggression (Mild huffing is normal, but nothing beyond that).  Monitor their feeding, if one Hedgehog appears to be withholding food from the other they should be separated.  If your cage is very large you could divide it with a piece of plywood or something they cannot see through and keep two hedgehogs that way; however, they still require at least 60 cm by 60 cm (2' by 2') each.  Please, PLEASE do not ever house opposite sex Hedgehogs together.  If you are interested in breeding please go to Hedgehog Central and CAREFULLY and COMPLETELY review their Tips on Breeding, Guide to Handfeeding and MINIMUM Expectations of Breeders.  You should then look at the general Breeding FAQ's provided by Brian MacNamara and read the breeding articles in Part 6.  While Brian has been updating them when new information becomes available, some parts may be a little out of date.  Nevertheless, they will help you begin to understand the basics of what is required when Breeding.  Ask questions of established breeders in your area (or us at The Hedgehog Emporium) and approach the IHA for a mentor to help you get started.  After you have done all of these, read the Breeding section of this website and seriously consider if you have the time, energy, money and motivation to care for any babies you should generate should you not be able to sell them.  Breeding is not ever something to be done casually or without substantial research.  I have been fortunate not to have lost a mother due to birth complications, but I have lost an entire litter and it is heartbreaking.  I only feel comfortable breeding Hedgehogs due to my luck in having small animal vets as friends who are very eager to help me out.

            There are several commercial Hedgehog foods on the market, most of which are complete crap and your pet can actually die of malnutrition while eating these foods regularly.  While Select Diet is good I cannot find it anywhere in Hamilton.  I use Orijen Adult even though it is marketed as a Dog Food.  It is made from high quality natural ingredients, contains a large variety of vitamins and minerals, and provides 42% Protein with only 16% Fat.  This might not work for all your pets, but with a little understanding of Hedgehog metabolism, and a whole lot of label reading it is possible to generate your own food mix based on high quality cat food brands.  You will need to look for a food supply that provides AT LEAST 30% protein (preferably more), and around 12% fat (20% at the highest).  This is very important to make sure your Hedgehog has enough energy and doesn't become overweight.  A fat content much lower than 10% or higher than 20% could lead to very significant health problems.  The food you choose should have quality ingredients at the top of the list including whole meat or meat meal (chicken, beef or lamb).  Watch out for general by products or digests (meat by product, poultry by product, poultry digest) as these tend to be the bits left over from the processing of the better parts of the meat and may include such things as hooves, beaks, feathers, and skin.  You will also want to watch the corn content of the food.   Corn is used as inexpensive filler, and while a small amount of well processed corn is tolerable, it is nutritionally empty and can cause digestive problems. 

Treats of unspiced chicken, tuna and salmon are big favorites with Hedgehogs, as are bits of cooked egg and many fruits and vegetables.  Hedgehogs are lactose intolerant so avoid dairy products should be strictly avoided as they can cause an upset stomach.  The first time you try a new treat just give them a small amount to see how they handle it, thus avoiding upset stomachs.  Treats of mealworms, crickets, butterworms and waxworms are enjoyable, but not necessary.  These high fat, high phosphorous and low nutrient bugs are not healthy in large amounts, but it can be very fun to watch your Hedgehog chase after its lunch and try to catch it (and miss more often than not).  If you intend to give them insects on a regular basis, look into "Gut Loading" the bugs with high nutrient foods for at least 24 hours prior to feeding your Hedgehog.